where to begin?

With so much that is new, I'm having trouble deciding what to write or where to start... Maybe with today? We've decided that Pristina has some of the best coffee in Europe, but I admit that lunch today was the first full meal I have been able to eat. I am sorry to admit it, but I apparently am the picky eater that everyone has accused me of being for so long! But, it has taken me a few days to find some good vegetarian options on the menus, and I'm feeling more positive about that now. Besides, this morning I went on my first, albeit none-too-extravagant, solitary excursion in town -- down to the corner store for a breakfast of soda water (which they call "water with gas"), fruit, and yogurt. Other events today included the second segments of two three-day workshop sessions, first in the morning with university-aged theatre students, and in the afternoon with teens from the local school. Both groups were asked to bring objects of great importance to them for a mature version of show and tell... With both age groups, some of the participants connected their most important belongings to some aspect in the war, whether it was something (like a doll or watch) that was saved as they fled their homes, or something that reminded them of a loved one who was lost or killed. Just for background, the war was between Albanians and Serbs in '98-'99, and what I heard about was the Albanian experience in the war, before NATO made the decision to intervene. (Bill Clinton is so popular here, that they named one of the major streets after him! The other main road is "Mother Teresa,” who I suppose is the most famous and respected Albanian.) On the other hand, many of the stories were completely unrelated to the war, like stories of parties and of childhood, of friendships and family. Listening gave me a greater perspective on the history of this place and the people here, where war plays an inevitable and strong role in past and present; life in Kosovo is remarkably "normal" as well. To complement the Albanian stories, we went on a little trip to Gracanica, a stunning old Serbian Orthodox monastery built in the 14th century, and which, today, is guarded 24 hours a day by NATO (KFOR) soldiers. While I can't imagine any violence actually being committed against that important cultural and historical monument -- and the Suisse guards seemed bored out of their minds! -- there is still a sense of unease around Serbian communities. I also had a lovely dinner tonight with a girl who also works in the Theatre Centre's office, and she told me about her experiences in the war. We discussed Rwanda, and Bosnia, and Sudan, and Israel... and I think I'm done for politics for today! Now, I shall get a ride back to the apartment I'm staying in until we find a place for me, and try and get some sleep, which is still more difficult than it should be. I'm still feverish every night (and sometimes during the day, too), and it has been impossible to fall asleep before 5am. Tonight I will take a sleeping pill and see how it goes. So, Ciao Ciao. Say it quickly, and you'll be saying good-bye like a true Kosovar.

wow.

So, I've arrived in Pristina, and have much to tell, but don't have much time to write...so...
I guess every great adventure must begin with its own adventure... mine was the challenge of even getting here, as I fell very ill the minute I stepped onto the airport express bus from oxford to the airport. Maybe it was not sleeping for three days (ie. travel sickness) or maybe it was the stress of not knowing what was to come, but likely both. But let's just say that I felt worse than I did in toronto with a little norwalk virus! I'm still feverish, which has made it difficult to really pay attention to life in pristina. But here are the basics...

The theatre staff are nice and young, and I hope that soon we will become better friends. And, just for a few days,there are three British actors here to do workshops, and it has been comforting to have other non-locals around. I am staying for the next few days at the director's flat, but hopefully we will find something more permanent. I'm not sure if I'll be able to live with anyone else, which I would like more than living by myself, but we'll see.

hmm... the food is very eastern european, with mostly meat, and beans, and tomato salads as feared. But I haven't been able to eat since I've arrived, and will need to try things out later.

otherwise, I should go, though I have much more that's intersting -- my impressions of the city, the people, and the work -- but I must run now. Take care. I'll try to do the same.

"anticipate"

...was the best advice anyone ever gave me before leaving for the middle east, and it's the best thing I can think of to prepare myself now. I have few expectations of what my life will be like for the next six months. Besides, I can just leave them in vancouver with the rest of my belongings, most of which won't make the minimal baggage allowance. No, really, it's a minor miracle that I'm fully packed and under the weight limit (all ye of little faith!). As for tomorrow, all I can expect is for something new, and that I can't be disappointed in.